Folder for collaret-machines.



APPLICATION FllED AUG 6|1906 L. KRUG, J. PfwElS W. C. ROBINS.

FOLDER Fon COLLARET MACHINES vWITNESSES: ,y

N We

Y FOLDER FOR COLIIARET MACHINES.

APPLIIIM'ISINy VFILED AUG. 6. |905- V v Patented June 26, 1917.

4' SHEETS-sum1.-

120 properly and evenly hemmed or folded so `UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE@ LoUIs xnUG, JOHN rf wars, AND WILLIS o.

ROBBINS, 0F NYACK, NEW YORK, ASSIGN-- ORS, IBYl MESNE ASSIGNMENTS, T0 LUCIUS N. LITTAUER, OF GLOVERSVILLE, NEW

YORK.

FOLDER FOR COLLBET-HACHINES.

Application Med August 6, 1908.l Serial No. 329,355.

To all whom it may concern: Be it known that we, LCUIS Kuno, JOHN P. 4Wins, and WILLIS C. RonnINs, citizens of f the United States, residing at. Nyack, county of Rockland,and State of New York, have invented a new and useful Improvement in Folders for Collaret-Machines, of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to folders `for sewing machines, and particularly to that class of folders, or cloth-turning devices, which are adapted'for manipulating a collaret, or strips of similar material.

Among the objects of this invention, the following may be noted: to provide a folder which will manipulate the binding material, such as is used for Balbriggan and other undershirts, so that it will be accurately guided and `fed to the stitching point or position of a sewing machine with its edges that it maybe attached to the body material of a shirt along the neckopening thereof; to provide a folder,- fo'r attachment to a sewing machine, of 'a construction such that it will properly manipulate a collaret or binding `material, receive -the edge of the bodyl material, and present the two ma- ;terials Ain proper condition and juxta-po'si- 30. stitching passing through the hemmed edges tion for connection by a-lne, or lines, of

' and the body material; to ,provide a folder Vll of such construction that it may be applied to the work-plate of practically any ma-4 chine without obstructing the 'view of theoperator in front of the stitching position, and so as to present the material to the stitch-forming mechanism 'directly in the line of feed; to provide a folder-which is ada vtable to a collaret machine ofpractically any style and-which is placed on the machine at. a right-'angle to the line of feed,

with its delivery' end parallel with the feed; to rprovide a folder for binding. materials of all kinds with a tensiou-device operating pon the .edges of` the binding so as to stretch the same, in order to make the edges operated upon of greater radius, thus giving opening' of "a shi-rt, for example, `to-which the binding is applied; to .provide a folder for manipulating -eo'ilarets so as to allow the body of the latter topass freely throughthe folder withsubetantilly' no stretch, and so as to apply tensimrtethe folds4 of the-heme of the collaret at the delivery end of vthe lfolder; t9 provide a folder for manipulating binding materials having a construction such that said binding is led close up to the stitching point and the presser-foot,

-so that the latter muyfreeeive under it the entire width of the-,hemmed binding material, and thus avoid staggering the` bindlng and any tendency to draw the hemmed edges away from the stitching mechanism; to provide a folder, for manipulating bindings, with means whereby to prevent the extreme edges of the binding which are being hemmed, from curling, and, generally, to place such tension upon the binding material at the hems as to locate the fold properly and limit the How of the collaret through the folder and guide it uniformly; to provide a folder, of the class described, with means whereby to perfectly control the disposition of lthe stripe or tuck-stitch which may be produced in the manufacture of the `collaret, or binding materials, so as to cause said stripe or tuck'sttch to take its proper place on the edge of the neck of the garment during-the application of the colla-ret tov the latter; .to provide a binding-guide with new forms of uncurling devices, specially adapted for collaret work, or work of -similar character; to provide a folder which can be made from sheet or blank material forl cheapness of manufacture; and to provide other minor features of improvement and importance for manipulating a `binding of any character so as to guide the portions of a sewing machine witha folder secured thereto and the relation of the tension and 4guiding device delivering the binding material to the folder, the edges of the binding material being shown turned or hemmed at the delivery end of, the folder to illustrate the manner in which tl? controlling wires operate upon the edges as the binding makes its angular turn and'is fed under the presser-foot. to be stitched to the body n'iaterial;

Fig. 2 is a top plan lview of a portion of a sewing machine, showing one forni of folder secured thereto and the relation of the tension and guide to the folder, portions of the figure being broken away to show the manner iii which the binding is manipulated; n

Fig. 3 isa front lelevation of the folder shown in Fig. 2;

Fig. 4 is a rear elevation of the folder with a strip of binding' material shoWIlt therein, the forni'being that of Fig. 3;

Fig. 5 is a top plan View ofthe blank from which the folders are made;

Fig. 6 is a top plan of the mouth-blank as made separate;

Fig. 7 is a top plan of the tail-blank as made separate;

Fig. 8 a top plan of another form of the folder, showing the binding material therein;

Fig. 9 is a front elevation of the form of folder of Fig. 8;., l

Fig. 10 is -a section on the line 10-10 of Fig."3, lookingin---the direction of the arrows;

Fig. 11 is a front View of a portion of the tension device;

Fig. 12 is a front view of the 'tension holder; and

Fig. 1-3 is a side elevation of the tension holderf`V Primarily, it should be understood that folders 1of the character made the subject of this invention are specially'intendeduand 40 adapted for the manipulation of what is` known as a French collaret which, during its traverse through the folder, has its edges turned or hemmed so as to be'properly applied to the neck-opening of a Balbrggan undershirt. It should not be understood, however, that this. class of Work indicates a limitation in the functions of the folder,

or in its capability of manipulating other styles of collarets andbindings of allA character, as the structure of our folder is'siich' es terial'to bepassedv through the-same, -although the-features of ourinvention have been developed especially in connection with goods,j or goods whichV arestretehy or :elastiek f :.,Theustructure fof the'present' application -as will be presently described.- -0ther spe- -cial advantages` of features 'of' the folder about to be described 'will -be set forth, in .connection with their ymechanical` details' is especially adapted for manipulating eer tain styles of eollarets, wliieli hare been i'e- 1 cently developed in the trade, and which are now in great demand; that is to say. eollarets, as i'i'ia'de by cert-ain manufacturers. are provided with salient or ornamental ridges, or ornamental stitches`v in tlie body thereof extending longitudinally ot' the inateiial, the saine being formed usually from colored yarns by what is known iii tl-ie art as a tuck-stitch. The ridges tliiis foriiied constitute impediments to properly iiianip.- ulating the collaret, and prevent. oftentimes, its proper application to the body material.

In other words, i'n applying the ei'illarel, 80

made as above. noted, to the edge of the neck of the garment, "1t `is essential that the said -ridges or stripes made by 'the tiielestiteli.

or otherwise formed, shall lie uniformly -disposed, either directly on the edge of said'85 neck, or uniformly` spaced from the folded edges of t-hecollaret; but. it has been loiind that, in leading in the eollaret. the latter is .liable to sag to the bottom-of the folder.

resulting in causing the said stripe or ridge to sa aWav from the. central line ol the 'these cases, the d'iliieulties just above noteili with reference to leading -ii'i the eollaret and bringing the said stripe or ridge exactly ai 10itheedge of the nei-k of the garment. or at a unifornr distance from the lieiniiied edge of the eollaret. will be inet with. lii all these cases. if the colla ret. cannot be liioperly applied. to .the body vmaterial` it will be necessary to either throw away n-ialerial portions of the collaret, thus i'irt-idiieiiig expeiil sive waste. or. if tlieeollaret has been :ippliedto the garment, the latter eaiiiiot bel disposed of to the first-class trade. The above difficulties areiall` overcome, and waste is avoided, and the garments are saved liy the use of the folder orbinder produced. .by us, and which is-made the subject of this application; and, with such folder or binder. we are able to perfectly7 control the disposition ofthe stripe or ridge either` on the edge of the neck of the garment, or uniformly witlrref- .erence to the henimed edges of the collaret,

during the courseof this description-f. .Forbrev1ty,'we purpose, throng the no description and claims, referring to the mate:4

material to which the binding is appliedsl i ing its ojitar'eid .substantiall V-shaped in the body-materiaP and intend thats'this term' or expression shall comprehend any material to which the binding may be applied, whether it -be in garment form or not.

Upon reference to the drawings, the structlire of our folder `will be readily understoo and in saiddrawings, and with snwisief erence to Fig. 5, it will be see that the body-portion of the blank ofthe folder is, indicated by the numeral 1, which body-por tion may have formed integral vwith itan extension 2, shown in. dotted lines, which forms the-"tail of the folder. As shownin Fig, 7, said tail may be a separate blank. The numeral 3 indicates sideffxtensions which, at their forward portion, are sep- 'riated from the body-portiomsaid extensions 3 having their outer edges 4 straight,' their outerends 5 at an obtuse angle to their outer edges, and their inner edges forming an acute angle .with the ends, said inneredges terminatin in substantially a semi-circleV 'so as`to help germ a large' space 7. f-.Chi's space, ,hen thek blnk is `formed into affolderA not only facilitates the formation of/-t'liefj-- 11n-- curler 14 hereinafter described, butfenables that part of the foldemto the rear jor t'o the right of this space in Fig. 2 to flater Vvertical, thereby to feed a strip vertically,

i 'and the front portion or that part. f the 40 folder to the left of the space in, Fig. 2 to be properly bent upon itself so asto fold the strip u on itself.: In other words, this space not onl)v forms a dividing line between the straight portion of thefoldecii'mwhere the strip is fed substantial] verti l y and the bent portions of the fo der whe the strip isturned upon itself, but as stged, mateL rially 'facilitatesthe prcper formationl of the folder to enable it to eed the Strip in the manner indicated, while it also/facilitates thev roper disposition of the -loop forming mem ers 8 and the extensions 3. It isalso advanta eous in the handling of the strip to enable the operator to see exactl the manipulation of the strip by the fblder and may also be v of the stripi .the folder. The body 1 of the blank is formed with loop-forming meintensions bers 8, each provided with 9 near the forwag'daenddd each also hav-r form` esindicated at 10, and body of the bl'gtnzkbeing also `V-shaped at its end reversely tegtl'ie ends of the loop-forming members, as slibwn at' 1l. The outer edges 12 of the loop- .body-blank 1, as shown sed to' facilitate 'the insertion fermig/ members 8 are given an ogee curva ture extendin from the extensions 9 to the space 7, at which latter the line ofsaid edges is extended at substantially a right-angle to form a V-shaped' notch 13 and a ip 14 which forms, inthe com leted article, an auxiliary nncurler, as will be described. To produce .theflder shown in the several 4blank 1 is folded along the severa lines 15, so as to turn the 'extensions 3 over upon the body 1,' and then the loop-forming members 8 areffolded over on the lines 16, so as to res, the` inclose the extensions 3,- all of which will be vreadily understood u n reference to Figs. 2,f3, 8, 9 and 10. en the folder is thus formed, the lugs l9 of the loop-forming meinbers 8 are bent down u on the extensions 3 near the forward end ofpthe latter and solder is applied so as to'form the connection 17, shown in Figs. 3 and 9, to thus give sup rt -to the extensionsB, at their outer ends, wliibh `extensions form tongues within the loops 8, f

said tongues and loo s startin and formi the fold in the binding material to propel- 1 hem the edges of the latter.

:lips 14, to project'into the space 7 and stand in a position to receive the curl `of the binding and lift the edge ofthelatter so vas to.

older and form the hem of the binding. N ow viewing' Fig. 6,'V the blank which forms the mouthiece or outlet-end of the folder will be rea ily understood,'the body of said" 18, said blank'beblank being indicated b ing given a substantia ly trian lai" form so as to fit in the V-sha ed enull of the y dottedlines in Fig. 5. When the folder is formed, the blank 18 is doubled u'pon itself and soldered, for example, into position so as to become an integral part ofthe folder and extend at a right-angle, substantially, to the loop-portions 8 of the folder',

s hown inthe severa figures. l

Referring nowto Figs. 8 and 9, it will be seen that the mouth-piece 18 of the folder lextends beyond the back of the latter a slight distance, as shown at 19. The edges 4 of the extensions 3 are brought into separated position, as shown in Fig. 9, and are thus main The lips 1 formed at the junction of the loop-portions'v give it the proper direction through V the the concavity of, the mouth-piece being resented outwardly as loo los

tained by means of a bridge-piece 20 properly soldered in place so as to brace said extensions and hold them separated from the mk of the folder to provide a free passage for the binding' through the folder at the inletend 21` thereof, the channel or slot 22, thus'formed between the edges 4 of the extensions 3, permitting aninstrument to be engaged with thevbindingV for starting the end o f the same through the folder.A A

tension-derive. u'hirh eoperates with the binding material at' the folds thereof to exert ,tension and rrealte drag on the rollaret' at the folds. i's secured to the folderbv lneans'of a holder. fthe. horizontal base-portion 23 of whirh 4spans the ehannelor slot 22 of the folder and is soldered, or otherwise` rigidly secured. to the extensions 3. so as to hold the tension-derive centrally: of theI folder. The tension-holder also has the portion .44 extending at a. right-angle to the base 23, the upperend of which portion 24 is provided with an aperture 2, threaded for receiving the screw 26. The base 23 is provided with the pairs of \\'4 ings 27, separated hy the recess 28, these wings being made sufficiently thin to be fie.\'ihle,`and thus capable of being Vbent over, as shown by dotted lines`29, Fig. 13, and clamped upon the straight portions of the tension-device. Thus, wl1en the wings 27 are. closed over the portions 30 of the tension-de,vit-e, the latter is journaled in the base. 23, so as 'to rock thereon.` Between the p rn'tions 50. the tension-device is extended at a lifight-angle to provide the bari-$1, which, in the instanreishown, is in loop-form, the saine eoperating withthe forward, redu'ced. end 32 ofthe s^re\\"`2(, said end passing into the slot it?) of the bar 31 and havingits shojulderf-Hiin engagement with the back of the. bar Jl.'as clearly shown inl Figs. S and il.' rl`hus. 'theserewvt 1isenabled to rock the tension-devine. in its bearing in the base 23,

sofas to plaeefn'lore or less tension upon the foiwvardly-extending tension-arms 35 which, inthe. instance shown, are givena. bowed or curved forni and extend forward within the loops 8 of the. folder, and to substantially the. forward end of they tongues 3, so as to.

lie ivithin the fold of `the horns and create tension or drag on the latter by pressing the binding material at the folds of the hems against the bends of the lOopsSLasQ-learly represented in Figs. 8 and 9. Whatever may be the adjustment of the screw 26. for eXertingthe .proper degree of tension upon the arms 35 of the tension-dev'ice, said adjustment will be maintained, or the serew hieldv set by means of the binding-nut 36, which `turns upon the screw 26 and engages the back of the part24 of the tension-holder.

The particular andimportant lfunction of `tl1'isf tension-d evice is to/ereate drag upon the henis,or,edge-folds,.or"edges of the binding so as to stretch the same and give a greater radius thereto, thus imparting a cir cular rforni tothe binding as it leave-s the folder and givingto thef'nished work a ei'reular or roundedform.

y .It'willbe noticed that the'inouth-pieee 1S is" secured to the delivery-end. of the bodyl portion of ,the folder. in the spaee between the .endsfof the`opposite loop.-portions 8, sub- 'stanti'ally'at n. rlght-angle to the length of f the seid-folder, thus. compelling the binding,

.abruptly ata right-angle, so as to be de livered in the line of the' feed, as shown in Figs. 2, 8 and. 9. At. the delivery-end of the folder, and cooperating with the latter and said mouth-piece 1S, eontro'lliiig-guides "25T are provided, which operate on the folded edges of the binding to reduce. and prevent undue dra of the latter at the delivery-end of the fol er proper, as said binding makes its angular turn. Referring to Figs. 2 and 3, which show one form of the. controllingguides, it will be seen that the latter consist preferably* of substantially semi-circular pieces of round wire, soldered, or rigidly secured, in place at opposite ends to the outer portions at 38 of thel loops 8 of the folder and to the mouth-piece, 1,8 as at 39, said guides beingl extended, with considerable divergence across the delivery-end of said loop S, as clearly shown in Figs. 1 and 2. In Figs. 8 and 9, another forrn of oontrollingguides is shown, one end of each of which is secured to the outside of one of the extensions or tongues 3 near the outer end 90 thereof, as at 40, and extends from theI said point of attachment forward toward the delivery-end of the folder, so as to provide a straight. portion 4l extended 'substantially parallel with the delivery-end of the lo6p- 95 portion 8; of the folder, and at the extreme end' of said" loop-portion said guide, is bont around thelatter to form theloop 42 and back' upon the said limp-portion 8 of the folder, and secured to the, latte-r, or thoniouth- 100 piece 18, bylsolderngor otherwise, as at. 43, Fig` 10, in order to make a rigid connection. Thus, the guides are eaused to diverge slightly from the point of attarhnient -L-l vto the 'point of attachment t0` butl not. to the 105 same extentas .in the forni of Figs. l, 2 and 3. The disposition of the nitrolling-guides, as shown in the several figures, at the. delivery-end of thefolder. is an in'iportant feature of our invention and. upon it. we desire 110 to layv considerable stress. in that they reducetheA ydrag and tension upon thebindiug-lnaferial, as the latterlnakes its angular turn in the throat8and also prevent the @Xtreme 'uiges ofthe binding from rurling by keep- 115 ing the. saine substantially flat, as shown in Figs. S and 9, and 'prevent thefiow of the binding beyond the end of the folder, guide it uniformly during its passage through the mouth, and b v their diver-genre provide a, 120 wide entrance, for the bmlv-niaterial at the delirery-end of the folder.

rl`he extension 2 operates as the priniary uneurler fort-he ,material and prevents the son of the fact thatits outer edges are' nal'- roweddown to the eoniparatively narrow end 44, which is conside 'ably narrower than 130 the strip of material passingi through the folder. When it is understoo that the natural tendency of the binding-material is to cur-l over, as shown in Figs. 8 and A9, or to cling around the edges of the extension 2, it will be apparent t-hat the end 44 will always be centered in the bindingn1aterial,'between its curled edges, and the latter will be gradually straightened out into flat position asthe binding is led through the folder, so as to cause said binding to enter the inletend 2l of the folder substantially fiat, as shown in 8 and 9. This extension 2 may be made separate from the body-blank 1., as shown in Fig. 7, and soldered in posi-y tion, or may be made integral with said body-blank.

By comparing the form of Figs. 1, 2, 3 'and 4. with that of Figs. 8, 9 and 10, itwill be seen that there is a material difference in the structure of the folder as a whole and its coinbindtibn with the mouth-piece 18; that is to in the first group of figures, Vthe leopie'nd of the -folder stands at a considera bly angle relatively to the body-end,

' than in the second group of figures, because,

u toy in order to adapt the folder to manipulate binding-niaterials of narrow width, it is Inade much sin-aller and the loop-end does not have to be bent at much of an angle to the body-verni, hence, bringing the deliveryend of the folder more in line with the entryend; but`- when wide bindings are used, the

loop-ernlmust be made larger, resulting in` setting the loop-end at quite an angle relatively to the body-end. In other Words, differences in sizes of binding, beyond certain limits, necessitate a change in the size of the folder, and beyond certain normal or general sizes, a change in size of the folder, accordingly as to whether the size is increased or reduced, resulting in bending the folder as,` described at more or less of an angle,

a* carry the delivery-end of the folder more {mouth-piece 18,in proportion to the extent orilessaway from the stitching position, land.fu,necessitate changing the size of the @to which the same must be projected beyond the delivery-end of the folder in order to properly lead `the binding clear up to the stitching position,'or path of reciprocation ofthe needle. These changes in the size of i, the folder andof the mouth-piece are necessarywin order to'xnaintainand secure the saine,A relative position, 1n all cases, of the mouth-piece and path of the needle orstitchingppoililt so as `to guide said binding and proyjnerly present it for the line of 'stitching `1n thevhei'ns thereof. In all other respects,

Athebody-portion of themfolder, including the tongues 3, the loopjs and the lugs 9, is subi s tantially the same in all the figures.

u In the forni' of folder-shown in Figs. 1, 2, 3 and 4, the inlet-end has beenniodified; that fis to say, instead of being provided with the uncurling extension 2, shown in Figs. 7, 8 and 9, the folder is provided at its inletend with a rest or support for the collaret, so that the latter may be properly led into the folder at the inlet-end, the said support consisting f the bar 45 4having its ends turned at an angle thereto to providethe end-portions 46, the inner ends of which are soldered or otherwise connected at 47 to opposite sides of the body-end at the .inletend' thereof. n This support is located substantially in the the binding-material through the folder, as

lclearly shownfin, Fig. 2,' said bar 45 being thus 1n position such that the binding, in

passing thereover, will be led directly into .the entry-end 21 of the folder. This form of support, in addition to being a guide,v

tween the inlet-end of the folder and reel upon which it is wound. When the binding is placed'under tension, as just suggested, it is only necessary to use a support 45, such asshown in Figs. 2 and 3, which will maintain the said collaret, in its passage from the tension-device to the inlet-end of the folder, in its fiat form and prevent its edges from curling in the wrong direction between the tensiondevice and the. inlet-end of the folder. In this connection it should be borne in mind that the natural tendency of the binding-materialis to curl so as t0 throw the wrong side outside and that it is the object ofthe uncurling device 2 and the combined uncurling device and support 45, combined with the tension applied as suggested, to reyent the curling in the Wrong direction. ihus, by interposing the said devices between the tension-device and the inlet-end of the folder, the natural tendency to `curl lin the wrong direction'may be overcome. Preferably, the bar 45 of the, support over which the binding-material passes is straight, and the entrance-end4 21 of the folder is also substantially straight, and the said bar of the support is preferably disto Figs. 4, 8 and 9, it will be understood that, if any portion of the binding should pass the inlet-end with its edge or edges curled in the wrong direction,as at 48, Fig.

4, said curl will pass to space 7, andV straddle, or run upon, the lineal-ling lip 14,-

which is bent toward the dittensiorr 3, so as to close the binding passage sufficiently to prevent the increased thickness 'of the curled lane of the passage for im o ' passing through t edge from passing into the limp-'portion of the folder.` The curled edge will thus be received upon the lip 14 and will ride up the curved edge 12 of the loop-portion 8 and be gradually flattened, then turned over in the proper direction by the said edge 12 and upon the edge G of the extension or tongues 3, thus properly startin and forming the hem in the edges `of the i the primary uncurlers should happen to allow a curled edge to pass, the auxiliary uncurlers will certainly uncurl said edge. As before stated, with the form of combined support and uncurler 45, a combined guide and tensipn-dev'ice is commonly employed, the same consisting of the base or stand 49, Fig. 1, carrying a spindle 50, adjustable in said Abase by a clamping-screw 51 the upper end -of which spindle is provided withv a channel-bar 52, in which is set a .spindle-bar 53, carrying a series fof spindles` 54, said spindle-bar being clamped in the channelbar bythe thumb-screw 55. The spindles 54 are `spaced s0 that the binding mayjpass without undue friction between them, but

tension is applied to said binding by passingi the latter around and between two-or. lmore of said spindles according to requirements. This construction is merely an example ofA a means for guiding and applying tension to a binding, said means being usually disposed between the'binding reel andthe inlet-end of the folder. f

In connection with the folder 0f our invention, in all its forms, we employ a device which we term a strip-controller, the same consisting of the cross-'bar 56 soldered or otherwise Vrigidly secured to the folder so as to extend transversely across the slot 22 thereof, and two oppositely-disposed controlling-fingers indicated by 57 secured to said cross-bar 56 b means of the screws 58 lie elongated slots 59 in said fingers 57 vatl one end and tappedinto the ends of the cross-bar 56. This provides for the longitudinal adjustment of said fingers 57 and also permits a sidewise vadjustment or pivotal movement upon the screws.- The fingers are secured-in position such that they will converge toward the delivery-.end of thefolder and are suiliciently'long to per` mit their forward ends, toward which Said fingers are also tapered, and may be slightly curved, as clearly shown in 2 and 3, to be positioned within the loops 8 of the folder. The two adjustments'of thev controlling fingers 5T just described areprovided for the purpose of adjusting the forward end of the fingers toward and from the bendoffthe loops and longitudinall of the latter, in order to maintain the en s 'of the fingers always fiush or nearly so with the delivery-end ofthe folder, irrespective of the lateral position or adjustment of said fingers relatively to the fold of the loops. It

nding. Hence,`if

will be. understood that, as the edges of the binding are folded over by the said loops 8 and tongues 3, said edges will engage one edge of the said fingers and, according to the adjustment of the la'tter, the position of the binding in the folder will be perfectly controlled. Thus, by laterally adjusting the said fingers, which constitute a duplex guide the binding may be pushed one way or another in the folder, transversely thereof, in order to brin the said ornamental stripes or ribs forme by the tuck-stitch in the exact position desired. It will also be seen that,'if it is intended that the said stripes shall belocated in a given osition with reference vto -the edges of t e binding,-the .hemmed or folded edges,-said position can be both sccurately determined andperfectly maintained-'throughout the operation of applying the: binding to the edge of the body- In Fig's2, 3, 8 and 9,*we .have nshown a supporting or attaching means for the folder which, briefly, consists ofthe vsup- -plate 60 secured.l tothe lower 'tongue e folder in any permanent manner,

3 of substantially parallel with the slot 22, which supporting-plate carries thev extensjpn-l, at anle thereto, which in turncarries the .attaching-plate 62, which extends "substantiallyV parallel" with the supporting-plate 60.

elo open-end slots -63 for receiving thernkof vthe attaching thumb-screws 63, Fig. 2, for seen the folder in place upon the machine. Furt er details of this attachfolder will be readily understood; but, it ,must be borne in mind that the 'binding-material is ordinarily wound upon a reel 1n long lengths and is rdelivered therefrom by being dragged or fed through the folder by means of the feeding mechanism of the sewing machine. As above indicated, the cornbined binding-guide and tension device is located between the binding reel and the in-v let-end of the folder. This device must be distinguished from the tension-device which Y operates upon the edges or hems of the biliding and the functions of which latter have been clearly set forth above. The principal objects of the binding-guide and tension are to keep the binding from curling between the reel and the folder and to present said binding to the folder at the' proper level. Hence, the guide should be so adjusted that its spindle-bar surface will be on a level with the lower edge of the inlet-end of the folder (the latter being held vertically on the machine) so that the lower edge of the binding will be prevented from sagging, curling or dragging on the lower edge of said inlet-end. The tension applied to the binding by the s indles 54 is uniform throughout `the `Wi th of said binding and stretches the latter longitudinally, thus tend-.. \ing to prevent the edges curlmrgnd also, `presenting the binding at tie inletiend o'f the folder in such condition that it will run in smoothly and freely. If the guide and tension fails, for any reason, to properly erform its functions, the primary uncurling devices and the auxiliary uncurling de;v

vices will, in turn, `operate upon the edges of the binding so as to properly pass the binding to the stitching position.

When narrow bindings are em the form of folder of Figs. 2 an loyed and 3 is used,

ing-material in the manner already de-4 scribed, so as to direct the same properly through the folder and the throat, create the necessary dra dat the proper points and deliver the bin ing and body-material to the stitch-.forming machanism and presser-foot in' 'the condition required for neat and sightly work. The guides 37 or 41, in addition to the functions already described, prevent the extreme edge of the hemmed binding from curling, in that they keep said edges substantially fiat for delivery in that condition to the stitchforming mechanism. The points formed by the edges 5 and 6 of the tongues stand in the fold or hem of the binding at the delivery-end of the folder and properly locate the fold of the hem.

,I addition to the advantages already set the folder is adjusted on the cloth-plate ofV/frth during the COUTS@- Ofth above detailed.

the vmachine with the mouth-piece 18 close up to the stitching oslti'on represented by the path of the nee le 65, and close to the toe 66 of the presser-foot 67, in order that the hemmed binding'may be guided by the inner edge of said toe between the mouthpiece 18 and the broadened body 68 of said foot, see Fig. 2, and so alsoA that the bodymaterial maybe delivered at the same time directly from'" the said mouth-piece to the stitching mechanism. When the folder of the form shown in Figs. Band 9 is used, the

delivery-end of the folder is adjqsted so as to place the throato rtion 19 close up to the stitch-formingf mec anism and presser-foot, as just described with reference to the other form. When'the form of Figs. 8 and 9 is employed, the extension 2 of the folder acts as an uncurler, this becoming necessary, however, only when a tension-device in connection with the folder is einpl ed. If said guide is employed, the extensldnl 2l of the folder will` operate as an auxiliary and lead the, binding in smooth and `without curl, wrinkle or fold. The binding"being passed into the inlet-end of the folder, the same` will be worked down to the loops and tongues of the folder by means of an 1nstrun'ient inserted in slot 22, and then conveyed through the mouth-piece so as to start the folder in operation, and when the latter has fairly begun, the edges of the binding will be folded by the tongues and loops 3 and 8, respectively, and the edges .thus turned or hemmed will be conveyed'into the mouth of the` folder, as shown iii Figs. 2 and 8, by changing the direction of travel of the binding so as to deliver the same from the `mouth at u. right-angle to its assage through the folder, rthe angle vforme at lthe junction of the end of the body-portion with the throat determining and making the central line of fold of the'binding, which is indicated by w. The guides 37 or 41, the tension-arms 35 and the controlling-fingers 57 performing their functions upon the bindjustable edge-gage for the can be made of a single piece or blank of material, which makes it cheap and simple *59,4

""ir'iwithout the mouth and tail pieces 18 and lfacture; the blank can be made With 2, respectively, according to the nature of the use of the folder; the folder, by reason of its structural features is capable of handling all kinds of bindings and manipulating them in such wise as to present them to the stitching point and lead them under the presser-foot with only such stretch or tensionfasvis necessary, and-without curl in the edges thereof; by providing the adjustable tension-device for application of tension or drag upon the hem of the binding at the delivery-end of the folder, the proper curved or rounding effect canl be produced,

which is essential in many instances, as, for

example, in applying collarets or other bindings to the necks of undershirts, or other curved outlines; and vtheadjustinent of the tension-device being under the controlof the operator, the` tension can be adjusted during the operation of the machine,v ac-` i cordinglyas the observationsof the operator dictate the ecessities; by roviding the adlbinding-material, the stripe or tuck-stitch can be roperly directed at all times, as the bin ing is running through tbe folder, so as to apply the binding with the said stripe at the proper distance, either from the edge of the bindi ing, or the hem of the binding, and this feature of the invention also establishes a limit on both sides of the line of fold of the` binding for the lateral movi-ment of the latter in the folder, `so as to prevent the same from sagging and running of during its application to the body-material, this'also enabling varying sizes of bindings to be run throu h the folder without altering or replacing t e' latter; by providin the controlling-wires at the delivery-en of the foldern 'the hemmed edges of the binding are held in position and made to pass through the mouth of the folder smoothly and uniformly, thus also preventing the hem from varying in width between the turn from the delivery-end of the folder to the stitching position, and vthis feature also has the advantage of preventing the hemmed edges from running out too far beyond the delivery-end of the folder and thus compels the proper disposition of the line of stitching relatively to the edge of said hem; by providing the primary and auxiliary uncurlers, the material is compelled toA travel through the folder in proper condition and is prevented from reaching the loop-portions of the folder in any but the right condition, that is, while the primary uncurler will ordinarily uncurl and straighten out the edges ofthe binding, if a curled portion should pass said primary uncurler, the auxiliary incurlers will surely remove the curl and turn the edges of the binding into proper direction for producing the hem formed by the loops and tongues; hence, an improved form of the folder is produced, which eliminates, practically, every difficulty which has been discovered in connection with the application of bindings of all kinds to bodymate'rials and the several featuresof construction above detaled have been found to operate to perfectly apply the binding-material under every' possible adverse condition; theinterposition of the combined guide and tension-device between the reel and the inlet-end of the folder, or adjacent the latter, makes it possible to lead the bindingniaterial in flat form to the inlet-end of the folder, as well as place such tension thereon as ma'y be necessary to prevent the same from saggin and falling away from the folder and ragging in the lower portion thereof; and, by arranging the folder on the cloth-plate of the machine in a vertical position and at a right-angle to the feed, with kthe mouth of the folder substantially parallel with the feed, it is possible to propcrly manipulate the binding and body materials without occupying so much space in advance of the stitching mechanism as to practically obstrnctpand hamper the operator, thisv being great fault in machines employing foldeis ofk this character, which are necessarily made ,quite large in order to properly handle the work, and it will also be noted that our folder' is arranged partially below and partially above the surface `,of the work-plate with the delivery-end of the folder and of the moutli-piece substantially in the plane ofthe surface of the work-plate, thus enabling the feed to properl y engage the combined materials without drag upon the latter, or tension upon the feed-dog, this general disposition of the folding-device.

parts being an important feature of oui; inventionfind a great desideratum in connection with this class of work.'`

Havingy thus described our invention,

the latter being arranged on the workplate of the machine vat a yright-angle to the line yoffeed andk wholly at one side of `the latter, and `comprising al flat bodyportion vertically disposed on said work'- plate 'and having fits.; forward end tapered,

and the latterhaving an integral month` piecefixed thereto and arranged substantially parallel with thefline of feed.

3. A folding-device comprising a bodyportion having at one end hem-turning devices including loops having tongues suspended therein, in combination with a tension-device for coperating with the folds of the binding-material within the hem-turning devices at the delivery-end thereof.

4. A folding-device comprisinga bodyportion" having at one end hem-turning devices, in combination with a tension-device for operating upon the folds of the binding within the hem-turning devices, andmeans for adjusting said tension-device.-

5. Av folding-device comprising a 4flat, tubular, body-portion having a tapered hemtu ing device at one end, in combination wit. n integral mouth-piece fixed thereto at said end at an angle to the said bodyportion;

6. A folding-device comprising a bodyportion having at one end hein-turning devices including loops having tongues suspended therein, and edge-controlling devices supported by the body-portion between and extending into the loops of the hein-turningdevices, for operating npoii Vthe heiiiined edges of the material passing through vthe 7. A folding-devicevcom rising a bodyportion having at'one end em-turnin ydevices, and a duplex guide, for contro ling the yposition of the edge of the binding passing throngli the folding-device, arranged between the heim-turning devices and having its guiding devices extending into said hemturning devices. y n

8. A folding-device comprising a bodyrportion having at one end hem-turninc de vices, in combination with an edge-gui( e for primary uncur g-device and havin at' the other end hem-turning devices, and aso having between said hem-turning devices and the inlet-end auxiliary uncurling-devices, the

" vuncurling devices operating oppositely from the hem-turning devices. p

- ing means.`

'carriedyby/sai folding devicean a id forV controlling the position of theedgg-e o 10. A folding-device-fcom rising a bodyportion having at oneend em-turning devices, comprising loop and tongue portions, in combination with an uncurling-device carried by one of said portions and extending therefrom toward the othei` of said portions.

11. In combination with a folding-device havinghem-turning devices including loops having tongues suspended therein, a tensiondevice carried 'by said folding-device comprising a pair of yielding arms inclosed by and operating within the hem-turning de vices. j l

12. In combination with a folding-device having hem-turning meansqincluding loops having tongues suspended therein, an edge-4 guide carried by said folding-device, comprising a'pair of fingers extending longitudinally f and inclosed by said 'hem-turn- 18.V A folding-device havin at one end hem-turningmeans, and at t e other end 'edge-uncurling means, said folder also having, at the junction of its body-portion and `hem-turning means, auxiliary edge-uncurlers, the nncurling devices o rating oppositely from the hem-turning evices.

14. In combination with a folding-device, a tension-device for. operating rupon the hemmededges of the binding, comprising a base-'portion provided `with 'a body-portion at an angle thereto, a tension-device jourinaled in the base-portion, and adjustable means carriedbv the body-portion and operating with the tension device for regulating 4the tension thereof.` y

115. `AIfolding device comprising`- a bodypdrtionhaving eans, for folding a strip of material `at V iir-l'i'end; hem-turnin devices the vbindingpassin through the folding'de' vice, arranged in t e passage for the material, and having its guiding evice extending into said hem-turmng devices.

16.` A blank for a sewing machine folder comprising a body portion having opposite side extensions separatedfrom the forward end ofthe said portion by slots, said blank having a art adapted tov form uncurling means at the inner ends of said slotswhen the blank is folded.

I7. A blank for a sewing machine folder comprising a body portion havi opposite side extensions provided with su stantially straight outer edges, the forward ends of which are' separated from said body portion by slots, eac `of said extensions havingits Vfree end located substantially at an obtuse angle to its outer edge, and said bod .p0r-

tion having at its forward end a su stantially V-shaped recess which, together with the angular formation ofthe, ends of the Aportion having inclined ends extending in the same direction and the'said body porextensions, formr when the blank is folded tion having a substantially V-shaped recess at the same end.

20. A blank for a sewing machine' folder comprising a body portion having connected therewith two extensions at each side thereof one separated from the other b a slot` each of said slots at the inner en thereof terminating in a part adapted to form when the blank is folded an ncurling device.

21. A blank for a sewing machine folder comprising a body Vportion having connected therewith; two extensions at each side thereof one se arated from the other by a slot each of sai slots terminating in a art adapted to form when the blank'is fol ed an uncurling device and said body portion having a sustanti'ally V-shaped recess at its forward en 22. A sewing mach-ine folder comprising a bodyportion liavingat one end hem turning means, an edge guidecarried by Vthe folder for operating upon the edge ofthe 4binding operated upon by the hem turning means, and tensionmeans'also-carried by the folder.

uncurling means, said-uncu-llingmeans bei ingstformed inte la1 with the-body portion uld antially mi way of the length of the Yo er.

25.y A sewing machiney folder comprising edge.

be' inverted a body portion having at. its fmfward end hem turning means and between itsl endsI uncurling means, one at each side thereof, said uneurling means extending toward each other. n

2G. A blank for a. sewing machine folder comprising a body side extensions separated from the forward end of the body ;)ortion.b v slots, each of said extensions having its free end located sulistantially vat an obtuse angle to its outer and said body portion-having at its forward end a substantially V-shaped recess, which together with the angular format-ion of the ends of the extensions form hen the blank folded means to permit Ihe strip to be ,inverted or turned inside out.

2T. A blank for a sewing machine, folder comprising a. body portion having opposite, side extensions separated from the forward end of the body portion by slots, each of said slots terminating in an enlarged portion at its inner end, said blank also having a. n'oiection adapted tol form uncurling means at the inner end of each ot' said slots when the blank is folded.

2S. The combination mechanism, of a folder, means for supporting said folder with its longitudinal axis substantially at right angles to the. line. of stitching, said folder having guiding walls adaptedto' guide a binding strip and provided with space forming recesses at the side edges thereof, and having the. delivery end thereof shaped so that .aid strip may as it is led from the folder' to the stitching mechanism and also having between the receiving andV delivery ends thercofmeans for turning the edges ofthe strip outwardly and backwardly upon the strip.

29. The combination with stitch forming mechanism of a folder, means for-supporting said folder with its longitudinal axis substantially at right angles to the line of stitching, said folder having giiidingwvalls adapted to guide a binding strip and provided with space forming recesses at the -m'eehanism, A.of 4mg.- saldfolder with side edges thereof and having tbe delivery end thereof shaped so that said strip may be inverted" as it is led from the folder to the stitching mechanism,

thereof means-for turning strip,- said folder also having between itsreeeivmg and delivery ends means for foldl,ing tbe-binding strip between its edges.

3Q., The-,combination with stitch forming agfolder, means for supportits longitudinal axis angles .to the 'line of having guiding Walls substantially-at right stitching, said folder portion having opposite with stitch forming and' also having l.between the. receiving anddelivery ends the edges of the strip outwardly and backwardlv upon thev and having the delivery strip voutwardly and baekwardlv upon the strip, said folder having uncurling means at the spare forming recesses of the guiding Walls. y

3l. The combination with stitch forming n'leehanism, of a folder` means for supporti-ng said folder with its longitudinal axis substantially at right angles to the line of stitching, Said folder havingr guiding walls adapted to guide a binding strip and provided with space fornxing recesses at the side edges thereof and having the delivery end thereof shaped so'that said strip may be 'inverted as it is led from the folder to the stitching mechanism. and also having between the receiving and delivery ends thereof means for turning the 'edges of the strip outwardly and baekwardly upon the strip, said folder also having between its receiving and delivery ends means for folding the binding strip between its edges, Said folder having uncurling means at the space yforming recesses of the guiding walls.

A sewing' machine folder comprising a front and a back member spacedv apart and bent at `its forward end to fold the'strip centrallythereof, one of said members having a `pair of extensions overlapping the other and effective to fold thc raw edges of the. strip, said folder having means at its.

andbent-at its forward end to fold the-strip centrally thereof, one of said members having a. 'pair of extensions overlapping the other-and effective to fold .the raw edges of 'thev strip, said folder having means at its forward `end effective to turn the stripinside -ou'tand feed it at an angle to its initial direction of feed, the said .front and back members having space forming recesses at their edges whereby the rear portion'ofthc folder is spaced apart from the :front portion thereof at such edges, the said front and backf-members being unconnectmi at Such spaced portions.

v34. A sewing machine folder comprising a pair o f members bent upon themselves to form a front 'and a back member spaced the strip to l `at an an le to its inltial direction,of feed,

apart, said members being bent to hold a strip centrally thereof, one of said members having at its forward end a pair of extensions overlafp ingl the other member and effective to oid t e raw edges of the strip, and said members at each side thereof m the rear of said extensions having its edges unconnected, said folder also having its forward end effective to turn the strip inside out and feed it at an angle to its initial direction of feed. l

354A sewing machine folder comprising a bod portion constructed to fold a strip centra ly thereof at its forward end andi to fold the raw ed s of the stri and to perg turned insi e out and fed said `bof y portion comprising a pair of members spaced apart and having the opposite edges of said members between the ends of the folder unconnected back of that part 'of thc folder which is effective to fold the raw edges of the strip.

36. A blank for a sewing machine folder i comprising a body portion and a pair of exg5 tensions, one at each side thereof and joined substantially throughout its length to said body portion, said body portion having a substantially V-shaped recess at its end and each of said extensions having an inclined \g9 end adjacent to said recess, one inclined wall i WM. F. Moms.

VW., l. Rm. 

